Loom Maintenance
Ugh ! A dull subject. But if you have some down time, it's a good time to check the loom over. I can't pretend to tell every point to check, as there are a ton of different makes of looms out there, but here's a few common items to think about.
For scratches use a matching color crayon, they're made of dye and wax, just the thing for scratches in wood. For an old screw or nail hole put in a brass wood screw and it'll look like it was well cared for. Any steel or wood axle that turns in a wooden hole, put in candle wax. Any steel pin or axle that turns in a metal hole or bearing, put in a drop or two of medium oil (not if it's part of a brake.) Avoid very light oils like " a sewing machine oil", use about 30 to 50 weight oil, it'll tend to stay in place and not be as likely to drip out.
I also like two greases that you can find in a sporting goods outlet, "Reel Grease" and "Gun Grease" are both high quality greases that can be used sparingly on a loom and they come in small tubes so you don't have to buy a large amount when you don't want to. White Lithium grease is good for metal bearings, vaseline is not. Talcum powder squirted into a wooden bearing area will help to reduce friction also.
Any wood part that turns or rubs against wood, wax it with candle wax or canning wax (not if it's part of a brake.) Beeswax is best on cords that rub against something. A rope brake on a wooden beam or drum that's not holding tight might benefit from a little athletic rosin or the rope may have a glaze, so I'd replace it with a heavy cotton or hemp rope. On the loom frame, use Johnson's paste wax; it's my favorite, it may also be historically accurate for old looms. Avoid using soap as a lubricant, it attracts and holds moisture. I won't use silicone on a loom, silicone is OK on automobiles.
Grab any part of the loom and give it a shake, does the reed rattle, does a joint move? If the reed appears to be slightly curved, set it in so the concave side faces you. If it rattles, shim it with waxed paper or tinfoil; neither holds moisture. Center the reed and tie a colored thread in the middle dent. You may also like to put a dot of marker ink in the center of each shaft, the beater, and the back beam. Shim up and tighten up your friend, it deserves it. Sight down the breast beam, the back beam and the beater, to see if they're still straight. Adjust the shafts so they sit or hang level; check the level of the beams also. Check out every bolt and nut to see if they're snugged up.
Examine any ratchet pawls for damage or excess looseness. If a bolt is allowed to get loose, it might start making the hole oval shaped or oblong and that'll take some woodworking to bring it back to the original round hole shape. If the loom has recently been assembled measure the distance from the right rear leg to the left front leg, then do the left rear leg to the right front leg. The measurement should be exactly the same. Attach a magnet within reach for a blunt needle. Attach a clip of some sort close to eye level, for notes or drafts.
Reprinted with permission of Bill Koepp in California who is a member of the WeaveTech group that exchanges information at yahoogroups.