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November 2009 Archive

16 November 2009

October Guest Speaker: Peter Collingwood

The DVD presentation was introduced by Ann Beatty and Audrey Miller who told the story of her macrogauze hanging. Audrey and Barbara Roper were in a Salvation Army shop one day and noticed a bundle of rolled up threads which they suspected might be a weaving. On closer inspection they found it was indeed a wall hanging with a metal plate attached inscribed Peter Collingwood with a number. Audrey asked the man behind the counter how much he wanted for it and he said Oh, three dollars. What a bargain! It has gone to a good home but imagine how easily it could have gone to the tip. Peter Collingwood sold his macro gauzes by weight, depending on how much metal was in them.

The DVD we watched was recorded at short notice in May 2008 for the Complex Weavers Seminar in St Petersburg, Florida in July 2008, when Peter became unable to travel there. Sadly, he died in October the same year.

Peter Collingwood began his weaving career in 1950 under the guidance of Ethel Mairet and has since gone on to become a well-known weaver, teacher and author of several authoritative books on diverse aspects of weaving and other forms of thread interlacement.

On the DVD he is seen in conversation with fellow weaver Stacy Harvey-Brown at his studio in Nayland, Suffolk, talking about his life and work. We saw Peter sitting at various looms explaining the modifications which enabled him to weave using new techniques. Macrogauzes were possible because groups of threads were sleyed in narrow, separate pieces of rigid heddle which were wound with each section on its own bobbin and the bobbins suspended over the back beam and weighted separately. At planned intervals the bobbins were unweighted and the sections of heddle were removed, the warp was crossed over other sections, twisted or otherwise manipulated then the heddles and weights reset. Iron bars were woven in to hold these interlacements. Each hanging was fitted with a steel plate and numbered. It was wonderful to have an example on hand to appreciate the simplicity of his design.

Peter spoke about why and how he developed his system of shaft switching and showed a second loom which was set up for this technique. Certain warp threads go between rather than through heddles and can then be switched from one shaft to another by tightening or loosening loops around the warp threads. When weaving rugs he devised an extension for his back beam that ensures that even warp tension is maintained throughout the weaving. When Harrisville made a rug loom based on his design, they extended the warp vertically rather than horizontally. This saves space but makes it rather difficult to adjust without having to climb a ladder every time you need to advance the warp.

Translating Knitting to Weaving Yarns

Weavers wrap a yarn around a ruler or piece of dowel marked off to one inch to describe the thickness of the yarn and then use these wraps per inch to calculate the sett. Knitters talk of multiple plies to describe the thickness of their yarn. But spinners know that plying combines two or more yarns together and that those yarns can have different diameters depending on how you draft. How to reconcile these different terms?

Wraps per Inch = Knitter's ply count
18 or more = 2 ply or less
16 to 18 wpi = 3 ply
15 wpi = 4 ply
14 wpi = 5 ply
13 wpi = 6 ply
12 wpi = 8 ply or Aran
10 wpi = 12 ply or Aran
9 wpi = chunky or 14 ply
8 or less = bulky

RAS 2010

Entries are open for the 2010 Sydney Royal Arts Show. Their catalogue is available on line.

There are two classes each in felting and weaving and five in spinning. The number of classes has been steadily diminishing because the numbers of entries has been going down, year by year. If we want to continue to have our craft represented at the RAS we need to support it by sending entries. Flood them this year and they may reinstate more classes next year.

The Guild is often asked by RAS and others shows to suggest suitable judges. We have developed a list of members experienced in fibre techniques who are available to judge. On November 1, Guild registered judges and others interested in the process met to discuss standards and share tips. Experts in different fibre fields presented their perspectives and the attendees practiced by "judging" their samples. Those present urged the Guild to develop a model show schedule and advertise its availability. They plan to meet again next year.

The Great Australian Fashion Show

Conceived in 1987 when John Scriven, a senior lecturer in Fashion Design at the National Art School, Sydney Institute of Technology, took his final year students to present Australia's first full fashion show in Paris to great success. He was encouraged to continue and since then the Great Fashion Show has travelled to all parts of the globe taking with it a different group of young Australians each year. In January 2010, they have been invited back to Vietnam for three fashion spectaculars during a 14-day visit.

Gracie Matthews, Hon Sec of the Textile Institute of NSW will be the show's coordinator. The Great Australian Fashion Show is a non-government, no-profit organization, which is self funded by its participating members each year.

If you would like to participate in the 2010 Fashion in Vietnam as a model, fashion designer, singer, dancer, hair stylist, make-up artist, or would just like to accompany this exciting adventure, contact: John Scriven: johnscriven@iinet.net.au or Gracie Matthews at graciematthews@iinet.net.au

Fibre Focus on Silk

I was thrilled to see that our first Fibre Focus was to be silk.

My place was booked for two workshops and the motel arrangements made. I knew it would be good.

The dust storms had abated but the leftover was all along the Pacific Highway on my way from Coramba to Sydney. The tonnes of red dirt were amazing and as I came closer to the city it seemed the fallout was thicker and the cars definitely more shrouded in the red reminder.

The next morning was the beginning of Fibre Focus. I had elected to participate in two spinning workshops with Priscilla Lowry from New Zealand. We attended our workshops in the upstairs room at Woodstock. I had never been there before and found it a marvellous venue. No squishing and squeezing trying to fit enough wheels, equipment and people into the space. Another course was running in the downstairs rooms back at the Guild - Liz Gemmell tutoring Shibori Dyeing silk.

Our workshop was spinning fancy yarns with silk. There were silk fibres enough to make your head spin and our wheels worked hard all day. We used top, hankies, cocoon strippings, throwsters waste, tussah and mulberry as well as bobble silk. We made many yarns and finished with a load of differently spun samples each.

Saturday saw a large number of people attend the Guild where all morning demos were happening - silk dying, braids, weaving (both tapestry and rigid heddle) and Priscilla was giving ideas on ways to incorporate silk into your textile art.

The afternoon brought the traders to the downstairs hall and the public and our members spent up on supplies. (Don't worry - I did my bit to stimulate the economy!) It was really great to have access to fibres and products we don't have available every day.

A quick Guild meeting followed at which the key speaker was Priscilla Lowry. Through manuscripts she showed us how knitting has been an integral part of history - the Madonna has been featured knitting-in-the-round frequently.

Sunday was back to workshops and spinning. This time we were spinning high loft yarns for knitting. Priscilla also gave us insight into designing knitwear. At the end of the day we each had a huge skein in varying thicknesses of tussah, bleached tussah and mulberry silk. I plan to dye mine and use it in a woven scarf. It may be successful or disastrous . . . but it will be a reminder of a fantastic Fibre Forum.

Meanwhile back at the Guild - there was still one workshop to run, Silk Paper Making, on the Monday. I had to head for home so did not get to see the results of that workshop. I am sure it would have been just as much fun and learning as the other parts of our Fibre Forum 2009.

I would like to thank Fliss for all her hard work and time that went into making the event a huge success. Fliss goes well and truly beyond the call of duty to ensure these events run well. I hope the Guild hosts another Focus in the future - hopefully it will grow from strength to strength.

I know I returned home with more knowledge and stash than when I left and had also enjoyed the company of Guild members whom I am happy to say I have struck friendships with through Guild activities.

What a unique and magnificent group we have.

Barbara Roberts
Grafton Fibre Group

09 November 2009

Pittwater Stitchers: Stitching for a Cause

Mona Vale library is proud to announce the launch of Pittwater Stitchers.

The group wil meet each Friday in the Pelican Room, adjacent to the service desk between 10 am and 12 noon.

The group will knit, crochet or stitch for causes such as the Red Cross (trauma teddies), Stewart House (beanies, scarves) or Wrap with Love (blankets, wraps.)

If you are handy with your needles and would like your work to benefit others, come along to the group and hook up with like-minded individuals.

Info: jane_smith@pitwater.nes.gov.au

There is also a kids knitting group, Knitty Gritty which meets in the Pelican Room on alternate Monday afternoons from 3:30 - 5:30 pm. Members of the Knitters Guild NSW Inc are on hand to teach, guide your child through a project or just to simply knit.

Bookings are not essential, no charge is involved. Drop in or stay fro the whole session.