Weavers wrap a yarn around a ruler or piece of dowel marked off to one inch to describe the thickness of the yarn and then use these wraps per inch to calculate the sett. Knitters talk of multiple plies to describe the thickness of their yarn. But spinners know that plying combines two or more yarns together and that those yarns can have different diameters depending on how you draft. How to reconcile these different terms?
Wraps per Inch = Knitter’s ply count
18 or more = 2 ply or less
16 to 18 wpi = 3 ply
15 wpi = 4 ply
14 wpi = 5 ply
13 wpi = 6 ply
12 wpi = 8 ply or Aran
10 wpi = 12 ply or Aran
9 wpi = chunky or 14 ply
8 or less = bulky
Cream 200g margarine and 100g sugar until light and fluffy.
Add 100g macadamia nut meal (almonds can be used), 1 tablespoon lemon myrtle – dried and ground, 1 teaspoon baking powder and 225g flour.
Form little balls (teaspoon sized) and press them flat with a fork.
Bake at 200°C until light brown, approximately 12 minutes.
Summer is coming and winter woollies will be put away in dark drawers where bugs love to lurk. The bugs eat any leftover food that hasn’t been washed off the woollies and munch the protein of the wool as well. One preventative is to get everything dry cleaned and pack them away in plastic bags. The residual carbon tetrachloride from the dry cleaner is an insecticide. But this seems like cruel and unusual punishment for your garments.
A technique that is currently creating excitement in knitting circles is dyeing in the fabric. A square is knitted, dyed then unravelled and reknitted. Unlike dyeing a skein, this produces a yarn with longer repeats of color, which means in turn that a single color can circle the circumference of a sweater or sock many times before merging into a new color or shade. Using this method, you can knit a Fair Isle sweater without disrupting the flow of hand knitting with frequent yarn changes and without having to endure the tedium of securing the ends of separately dyed skeins of yarn.
Pro Chem has a good website with instructions for using each kind of dye and textile paint, including directions for painting fabric or warps: www.prochemical.com. Or look up Dharma Trading at www.dharmatrading.com.
Protein fibres (wool, silk, alpaca) are best used with dyes formulated for them eg acid dyes and natural dyes. Cellulose fibres (cotton, rayon, linen, Tencel) have different requirements. Not only are the dyes different, but also the treatment and mordants. You can use a fibre reactive dye for cellulose fibres. These work at room temperature and do not need to be heat set. Margaret Coe wrote in a recent discussion on WeaveTech:
There seems to be a bit of confusion about dyes so it’s time to drag out the soap box. The pigments in dyes, acrylic, water color and oil paints, and even food are frequently the same. It’s the method of attaching the pigment that differentiates the products.
For protein fibres the pigments are formulated into dye that attaches to the fibre using acid. For home studios these are frequently in the “weak acid leveling” category, though the popular Sabraset/Lanaset are 1:2 metal complex reactive dyes. Acid dyes give good light and wash-fastness and brilliant color on animal fibres such as wool/silk and nylon, and are applied at boiling point. If you used vinegar the assumption was that you had used an acid dye. You do not want to use vinegar with a fibre reactive dye.
For cellulose fibres the pigments are formulated into a dye that attaches at a molecular level using alkali (the opposite of acid.) These dyes are called fibre reactive and give good light and wash-fastness on cotton, linen, and silk. Popular brands are Procion and Sabracon/Cibacron. Note that they “can” be used with wool, but they are not preferred. These dyes also hydrolyze, that is, they bond with water thus, in solution form, they have a limited shelf life. So with time, more dye is required to obtain depth of shade. To get deeper shades from fibre reactives use salt it’s cheaper than dye.
Finally, the goal here is to obtain light and wash-fast colors on fibres, or it should be. A lot of methods proposed do not necessarily give you good results. They’ll look okay initially, but in time will fade or, worse, bleed. And it is no more difficult to follow the correct procedures than the less than correct.
With all dye, to obtain the optimum light and wash-fastness an adherence to time and temperature requirements is needed. Procion MX is often referred to as a cold water dye, but it actually needs temperatures of at least 75 to 95 degrees, and does quite well at higher temperatures.
Sabraset/Cibacron requires temperatures of 105 or so. Both require that the fibres sit in the dye for a minimum of 1 hour to 24 hours at the required temperature.
If you are producing for your own consumption then it’s your choice, but if you are producing for articles to be sold to the public it is crucial that you follow correct procedures.
Margaret Coe — (via WeaveTech Mailing List)
Midnight Knitter has a pattern for a stylishy knit purse. The size is perfect for your knitting projects or for taking it around town.
Via Mala Rectangle Purse — Midnight Knitter (via CRAFT: blog)
Knitting News Cast has a cool wrist pattern where you can generate a pattern to make your own customised wrist warmers. Just enter in the circumference of your wrist, the gauge, your needle size and it automagically creates your pattern.
Wrist Warmer Pattern Generator — Knitting News Cast (via CRAFT: blog)
Amy Polcyn of MAG Knits has a simple knit patterns to make your own knit sushi. You can even knit the pickled ginger and wasabi. Why you would want to knit your own sushi is your business.
Sushi — MAG Knits (via CRAFT: blog)
Ryzellon wanted a hat a little out of the ordinary:
You want to keep your noggin toasty in the nasty winter weather. You don’t want to wear a hat that looks like everyone else’s hat. You like lions (or dragons). Now you can combine all of these desires into a simple, yet useful, item of clothing that’s infintely customisable and tailorable to your (or a recipient’s) tastes.
Customizable Fleece Hats — instructables (via MAKE: blog)
Cat of Cut Out + Keep has a tutorial on how to make your own customized labels for all the craft products you sell.
Ribbon Labels — Cut Out + Keep (via CRAFT: blog)