Inlay is the very simplest way of decorating plain weaving and can be woven on any threading giving plain weave. The inlay thread can be wool or cotton, or even linen, depending on the intended use of the article, but it should be softly spun so that it will pack down well. As the name implies, inlay threads are extra threads "laid-in" the web. For this reason the inlays cannot always be made in the same positions or the weaving will be distorted.
In all of the following techniques in this and subsequent lessons care must be taken in choosing threads and setts to get a proper balance between the pattern wefts and the warp and background weft. It is most important to watch the beat because the effect can be spoilt by the decoration being squashed or elongated. It is unfortunately very easy to beat so that the tabby is closer where the inlays are used tan in other portions. A good plan is to cut a sheet of newspaper the size of the planned article and on it to mark the placings of the design areas. In this way a visually pleasing effect can be achieved before weaving commences.
Throughout these lessons Tabby A refers to the shed opened by pushing the Lever to the back (when shuttle is inserted from the Right.) Tabby B refers to the other shed when the lever is pushed to the front and shuttle enters from the Left. (On a 4-shaft loom, Tabby A is 1-3 shed and Tabby B is the 2-4 shed.)
Inlays may be placed in the shed before or after the tabby background pick is thrown. Decide on one procedure and be consistent.
Some of the different types of Inlays are as follows:
Flecks
Small pieces of coloured weft are placed in the web at random intervals.
Tufts
Cut lengths of yarn and lay them in the same position for six consecutive weft picks leaving a short end hanging out of the web on each side. If this same techniques is used with a continuous inlay weft it is termed "Laid in every shed." The outline will not be vertical at the sides because of the different sheds used but it is very suitable for shapes with diagonal lines.
'When a large area is to be inlaid, wind the inlay thread on a small shuttle or wind it into a "butterfly". To make a butterfly wind the thread in a figure 8 between thumb and index finger of the left hand, the other fingers holding the beginning of the thread against the palm of the hand. Make 12 or 15 turns. Cut off the end and tie firmly with two half hitches around the crossed thread. Slip off the fingers and use the thread from the beginning. Do not overfill small shuttles or make large butterflies.
Squares
To inlay a square shape a better outline will result if the inlay thread is a little thicker is Laid in Every Other Shed.
The two types of Inlay just mentioned are given a new look in the Swedish way of doing them -- the H.V. Technique -- (see Shuttlecraft Nov. 1959.) The warp and weft are of linen and the background weaving is a little more open. The pattern weft may be handspun wool but is more usually several shades of one colour of singles linen wound together on the shuttle. The effect is very pleasing in curtains (see Australian Hand Weaver and Spinner, Nov, 1969, Judith Taylor's curtains.)
It is sometimes better to weave inlay patterns wrong side up so that the turns of the inlay threads can be easily controlled. If this method is adopted, use a mirror to check progress.
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